Vivant Deux Paris: Candlelight, Natural Wine and À la prochaine

ParisFranceEurope

Aug 6

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On an early-morning walk to our favourite boulangerie in Paris, we took a new route, turning onto Rue des Petites Écuries, and came to a sudden halt – unusual shapes through the window caught our attention. On closer inspection, they were tall wine bottles covered with years of accumulated candle wax, their sculptural drips hanging like stalactites. The sight sparked our curiosity, and we made a mental note to return and try the place.

Later that day, after an overhyped and ultimately disappointing restaurant experience (that shall not be named), we found ourselves back outside Vivant Deux without a reservation. We were politely directed to one of the restaurant group's other addresses on the same street, but our heart was set on this place and the company of those candle sculptures. After standing outside for a few minutes, trying to come up with a Plan B, Andreas, the bar principal, emerged from the restaurant and asked for a few minutes; a place was made.

The wait was worth it!

The moment you step through the door, the entire team calls out in unison, "bonsoir, bienvenue!" Just like the enthusiastic "Irasshaimase!" greeting heard in restaurants in Japan,it instantly dissolves any hesitation. The tone is then set by a vibrant rock and vintage pop soundtrack. This is a no-nonsense wine bar where you can leave yourself in the hands of the energetic, friendly, and sharp staff.

Formerly known as Vivant Cave, it was also famous for its Art Nouveau ceramic tilework. It moved next door and handed its original premises to its Italian sibling. Vivant now occupies a long, narrow space with a sliding-door wine closet facing the high-backed stools that line the marble top bar. According to locals, it has retained the same spirit: a mostly natural wine bar with an intimate atmosphere and serious cooking emerging from a tiny kitchen at the far end of the room.

At the helm is chef Léo Dauvergne, originally from Provence and trained at the Institute Paul Bocuse. His cooking is absolutely delicious. Not only does he make delicious food, but he also brings happiness to his menus.

We began with No. 4 oysters from KYS Marine. These are special cupped oysters cultivated in the historic waters of southern Brittany, medium in size, with a remarkably creamy texture and a sweet, buttery taste. Bathed in a cider vinegar emulsion, they achieved a balance between richness and freshness. The finely chopped walnuts on top, just enough to add extra texture, were perfect; we immediately ordered more.

White asparagus arrived next, paired with almond, pomelo, and a gently warming and light Sichuan cream. Then came a beautiful sea bream crudo with raw peas, fenugreek vinaigrette, and dandelion.

The vol-au-vent. Filled with oyster mushrooms and a confit egg, crowned with tarragon sabayon and served alongside a simple green salad with the best dressing ever, it was the ideal reward after a long day exploring Paris. The puff pastry shattered delicately under the fork, so flaky, while the filling remained hearty and comforting, an explosion of flavours and the comfort we were seeking.

A standout dessert was a refreshing, full-bodied date sorbet, the kind you can easily eat by the pint. It was accompanied by an elegant, airy coffee and hazelnut sabayon, and it was exactly the right ending. I hope it is never removed from the menu.

As you are greeted upon arrival, so you are bid farewell with the chant of “merci, au revoir!” (farewell, thank you)

What stayed with us most, however, was not any individual dish. It was the atmosphere. The ease with which Andreas Hermansen made space for us, and thoughtful guidance through the wines. Lilith's enthusiastic explanation of the food. The sense that everyone in the room genuinely wanted you to enjoy yourself.

The following day, hoping for one last meal before our train departed, we tried unsuccessfully to secure a reservation. So we went to a very subpar wine bar down the street in the hope that a spot would open up at Vivant; none did, but we did manage a brief conversation with Léo and a portrait at the restaurant.

date sorbet with coffee and hazelnut sabayon

As we said our goodbyes, there was no formal farewell. Just two simple words: "À la prochaine." Until next time.
Wonderful food, a memorable experience and our new Paris local spot. Reservations highly recommended