As with almost everything in Mexican cuisine, it begins with corn.
The class started at sunrise with an introduction to the native maize varieties the restaurant uses.  Handfuls of kernels in deep reds, pale yellows, blues, and almost-black purples were laid out in front of us.  As we handled them, the team talked us through the extraordinary diversity of Mexican heirloom corn and Criollo’s effort to protect it. A class worth crossing borders for

Maize was first domesticated in southern Mexico from a wild grass called teosinte about nine thousand years ago. It stands as one of Mexico’s most significant contributions to global food, becoming a staple. Throughout Mexico, especially in Oaxaca, it appears in countless forms, each influenced by regional, cultural, and historical factors. Working with masa goes far beyond just tortillas and connects you directly to that rich history.  

No Mexican table feels complete without salsas, the essential elements that connect a meal and highlight the diverse range of native chillies.  Next to them, the tortilla serves as both a fundamental base, a carrier and a symbol of tradition, representing daily craftsmanship that embodies history, identity, and continuity.